3 Days in Calcutta

In one of my earlier food posts, I had talked about iconic restaurants and caused the controversies that inevitably emerge when Bengalis discuss food! Recently, the post attracted a long, well-written comment seeking recommendation. 
Was going through your old blogs about Calcutta. Even though I am from a 'Hai Raam-you said ANDA' variety of UP brahmin family, have always been a wannabe bong. And now have turned my thoroughbred beef eating mallu husband into one hell of a bong convert. So much so that we are sneaking away to Calcutta for 3 days which has left our families befuddled and enlightening us about Air Asia and cheap foreign travel ;). I have always been a fan of yours and would love to have a chance to explore the place through your eyes. The must dos and eats and drinks! I have been there once and did the Victoria memorial, Flurry's routine but would love to spend these 3 days as a true blue bong would. Would you mind helping me out if it is not too inconvenient for you? I promise to return the favor by divulging all the secrets held close to my heart about Lucknow and Bangalore! Pretty please?

I immediately replied on how outsiders can spend 3 days in Calcutta. But after writing that comment, I realized it probably applied to more people desirous of spending some time there.
So, re-posting my response here…

You want to spend 3 days in Calcutta like a true-blue Bong would? Check into Ffort at Raichak and don’t move unless you have to eat or drink. I am told there’s a new place called Ganga Kutir – which is even more luxurious, pays even more attention to culinary matters and frowns at physical activity and raised voices. But I am sure you don’t want to do that…

Try to eat at Mocambo (Devilled Crabs), Peter Cat (Chelo Kabab), Arsalan and Shiraz (Mutton biriyani), Kewpies (Bengali cuisine) for the meals. Remember – it is important to eat at both Arsalan and Shiraz. Otherwise you would never be able to take sides during the Great Biriyani Debate and remain a perennial outsider to Calcuttans.

Between meals, make do with (double-egg, double-chicken) rolls at Kusum (Park Street), pastries at Kookie Jar (just ahead of La Martiniere school), phuchka near Bibekananda Park (on Southern avenue) and coffee at, well, Coffee House (College Street).

Don’t forget to sneak in a drink or two at Olypub (Park Street) along with cocktail sausages. Browse books at College Street. Watch a movie at Nandan. Catch a play. Visit Presidency College. Take a tram ride around the Maidan.
While on the subject of drinks, it has been ages since I had a drink during the interval of a movie. Do that as well. Unless the world has come to an end, New Empire or Lighthouse should still have the bars.

Chat with the cabbies. Ask the Nandan usher for a review of the movie. Tell the Presi students their college sucks. Walk past 1/1 Bishop Lefroy Road. Get on the Metro and get off at Uttam Kumar. Buy a CD of Rabindrasangeet. Passionately criticize the ‘blue colouring’ of the city. Floor the citizens by asking “amai ektu Bangla shikhiye deben?

Fall in love with the city. And then spend the rest of your life trying to explain to the infidels why.

People are watching Kahaani, liking Kahaani and praising Kahaani. They are singing eulogies of Vidya Balan, Sujoy Ghosh, Parambrata Chattopadhyay and Bob Biswas. Nobody (except Abhishek) is talking about the bewitching presence that deserves all the Best Supporting Actress awards for this year. The film couldn’t have worked without the hynoptic setting of Calcutta. 
You sexy thing. 

Comments

...and while around the college street area, deal a body blow to the Calcutta summer by downing some "daab shorbot" from Paramount
Anindya said…
both Light House and New Empire has now got converted into Shopping mall . Metro is still there . Globe is also closed
Let's start a petition to make Kahaani tax-free in Kolkata. Let's.
swagat said…
no no no ...rolls should be only had from badshah. period. thats it.

the only other roll place that was as good as badshah was the aptly named begum (just beside purna cinema, bhowanipore)- which closed shutters couple of years ago.
Nilendu said…
Chelo Kabab in Peter Cat is good, very good but, sadly, as almost a tourist trap often eclipses the supremacy of 'Dum ki Raan'. It is a true delicacy, takes almost 30 minutes to serve but nothing other than perhaps the feeling of a 13-year old reading Bahadur (aka Bela) Comics in a rainy day matches 'Dum ki Raan' with a shot of Old Monk, Coke and a slice of lime.
Kakali said…
Loved the post.
And thank God the title is not 'Three days in Kolkata'..
Anonymous said…
Sadly Lighthouse is no more! :(

Damayanti Bhattacharyya
Anirban Halder said…
Bob Biswas has been played by Saswata Chatterjee.
Anonymous said…
Hi

A big fan of your blog. Am a true blue bong from 'Calcutta' married to a UP boy. This year am planning to make him experience the real Calcutta on our annual vacation. Thanks for the help. Have taken a print out of your post and drwan up an itenary accordingly:)Only change have made is that the Rolls will be at Badshah.

Sarbani
sharmistha said…
I really think v(b)ivekananda park is overhyped where phuchkas are concerned...and so bloody expensive..i have had better and cheaper in small corners across south calcutta.
also..if one is in calcutta they just have to drink the daab sharbat at paramount at college square!
Anonymous said…
You are such a South Calcatian, you poor benighted soul. You don't know Putiram, Paramount, Golbari, telebhaja, Dwarik, Bhim Nag, Nokur, dingy "cabins" which serve heavenly breast cutlets & still call them "fowl cutlets" in pakka sahebi. Pity you poor guy. That's the great thing about being a Uttor Kolkattaiya -- can happily straddle the divide without getting lost.
Amrita
@ Amrita - http://diptakirti.blogspot.in/2007/05/calcutta-700029.html
Meghpeon said…
Oh! Calcutta. That's all I can say everytime I visit your blog. :)
sapera said…
oh please, nothing comes close to the biriyani from royal city hotel in kidderpore. if you haven't tried it, drop whatever you're doing and go. and no mention of the awesome kobiraji, a distinctly bengali culinary creation? i recommend joy cafe on harish mukherjee road, if they are still in business (probably not though). telebhaja, muri-murki, so much got left out.